Four designers talk style in the city
Proudly wearing the reputation as one of Germany’s chicest cities, Munich has long been notorious for its classic, conservative approach to fashion. Yet now, some young designers are bucking that trend, breathing a new sense of individualism into Munich’s style scene. Rather than designing for the masses, these ladies have opened up their shops to sell only one of each of their creations, at relatively affordable prices. We caught up with the designers of four such stores here in town, and asked them where they get their inspiration, what they wouldn’t be caught dead in and how we stack up fashion-wise against the Berliners.
THE DESIGNERS Mary Glaser and Simone Neufischer
THE COLLECTION Mischwarenzentrale
THE STORE Mischwarenzentrale, Baaderstrasse 55,
Tel. 12 01 41 69, www.mischwarenzentrale.de
THE PRICE RANGE € 14–€ 100
GO THERE FOR a most eye-catching collection of handbags. Glaser and Neufischer use mismatched patterns, vibrant colors, lace, denim, cross-stitch and plaid to create bags and purses that make quite a fashion statement. Prices from € 14.90 to € 75.
THE REST OF THE GOODS A funky, colorful mix of flouncy skirts, cut-off blouses and edgy T-shirts. “Everything is pretty far out, but at the same time wearable,” Glaser says. Along with their Mischwarenzentrale label, clothing from a number of other Munich designers (Emily the strange, neondorn, zebratod, Pidi and man nehme) is also available at the store.
THE INSPIRATION “Our ideas are simply from our own heads,” Glaser explains. “I have no clue how they come about. We just always keep our eyes open.”
THE PHILOSOPHY “Just try it out!” says Glaser. “You can get away with almost anything, as long as you feel good in what you’re wearing and aren’t offending anybody.”
FASHION MUST-HAVE “I could never live without the fashion from simi-go,” says Glaser, a collection also available at Mischwarenzentrale.
FASHION PET PEEVE Glaser says outrageously priced items top her list of fashion annoyances, followed closely by tight body suits. “[When wearing such things] you have to think about other people!”
WHY SHE’S IN THE BIZ “Fashion brings about a good feeling, whether you need expensive brands to feel good, something more individual or are in constant need of something new.”
ON FASHION IN MUNICH “Munich is definitely more chic than Berlin. Every city has its niche. The style of the people here can be very cool, even when the latest trends don’t necessarily come out of Munich itself.”
WHERE SHE SHOPS A supporter of her own cause, Glaser primarily buys her clothes at her own store. “But when I do shop elsewhere, I try to buy at the smaller shops and boutiques, such as Siebter Himmel and Pearl. I avoid the big chains, like H&M.”
THE DESIGNER Petra Mark
THE COLLECTION Petra Mark
THE STORE Petra Mark,
Damenstiftstrasse 11, Tel. 26 02 29 45, www.petramark.de, designs also sold at Fee n kl eid, Kirchenstrasse 5, Tel. 53 88 96 60
THE PRICE RANGE € 15–€ 350
GO THERE FOR coats and jackets, all made from felt, Mark’s trademark and favorite material. They come in classic colors, with subtle yet snazzy details, such as delicate leather ties around the waist or fringes around the hood. Priced between € 170–€ 350.
THE REST OF THE GOODS “I have a complete mix of everything for women,” Mark says. “Classic pieces, everyday wear and clothes for the office. But everything’s very individual. My collection is functional, yet special.”
THE INSPIRATION Everywhere and everything. But especially from the Bauhaus, a former school of design in Dessau devoted to fashion, art and architecture.
THE PHILOSOPHY Mark turns to Gertrude Stein’s infamous poem “A Rose,” substituting the word rose with dress, “A dress is a dress is a dress,” she says. “I had these words hung up outside my store.”
FASHION MUST-HAVE “There really isn’t one fashion item I couldn’t live without. I’m always more preoccupied with designing clothes for my customers, rather than being concerned with what I’m wearing myself.”
FASHION PET PEEVE Nothing in particular peeves off Petra when it comes to Mode. “There’s always something that looks good on everybody. It’s about the attitude. If someone wants to wear something, why not?”
WHY SHE’S IN THE BIZ “Fashion is simply a mirror of our time. It’s got a place in society and culture just like music, art and architecture.”
ON FASHION IN MUNICH “It’s of course chic, and has progressed. It’s very different from in Berlin, but I really don’t spend too much time thinking about the fashion here in the city. What’s most important are my customers—nothing else matters to me.”
WHERE SHE SHOPS “A mix of lots of different places, including flea markets. I love the designs by Bernhard Wilhelm, and the style of Belgian fashion, as well.”
THE DESIGNER Judith Nemec
THE COLLECTION ju:,did
THE STORE ju:,did Mode und Atelier, Ligsalzstrasse 32,
Tel. 17 92 95 17, www.ju-did.de
THE PRICE RANGE € 40–€ 100
GO THERE FOR simply-cut dresses, tagged with just a snip of something extra special, be it a funky fabric, a single button on the shoulder strap or a ribbon around the waist. These frocks are classy, feminine and well worth a splurge of between € 90 and € 95.
THE REST OF THE GOODS Simple designs just for women, but with definite added flair. “Most of my designs consist of straight cuts, with some unusual fabrics or details to make the clothes look special,” Nemec explains.
THE INSPIRATION “Living in the moment,” she says, gleaning ideas for her designs from anything from the vibe in foreign cities to what she sees on the silver screen.
THE PHILOSOPHY “I don’t have a real philosophy, and I don’t really think I need one. When I get an idea, I just try to create it immediately.”
FASHION MUST-HAVE Buttons and ribbon are two of Nemec’s favorites, but whatever she’s wearing, she always leaves room for error. “I try not to be perfectly styled from head to toe. There’s a special charm when it doesn’t look perfect.”
FASHION PET PEEVE Surprisingly, none. Nemec says if it floats your boat, by all means, wear it.
WHY SHE’S IN THE BIZ “Fashion is so expressive, it’s the greatest influence on your mood and well-being. You can hide behind it, or use it to show how you’re feeling inside.”
ON FASHION IN MUNICH “[In contrast to Munich’s stereotypical conservative stores], there are more small and more colorful shops opening here, like in Berlin. But I don’t think it’s about competition, rather just a completely different style.”
WHERE SHE SHOPS “Sometimes I go to H&M, for the prices. It’s not about the brand, or where the clothes are from. If I see something I like and can afford, I buy it. I’ll also buy things and change them a little.”
THE DESIGNERS Kathleen Hager, Heidi Gruber and Petra Mark
THE COLLECTION Fee n kl eid
THE STORE Fee n kl eid, Kirchenstrasse 5, Tel. 53 88 96 60
THE PRICE RANGE € 15–€ 350
GO THERE FOR adorable wool sweaters with that je ne sais quoi. Each sleeve is dual-colored, and sewn in a way to bunch slightly below the elbow, a subtle touch to cutesy it up. Priced at € 135.
THE REST OF THE GOODS Hand-knitted single pieces, such as pullovers, skirts, coats, shirts and dresses, made mainly out of natural fabrics, such as silk chiffon, linen and cotton. “Every piece has something extra,” Gruber says. “Whether it’s a little gadget, a bauble or is made from beautiful material, everything’s wearable, with out-of-the-ordinary cuts.” Also available are handmade accessories, jewelry, leather purses and household items.
THE INSPIRATION Travel and daily routine inspire the gals for their designs. “Ideas also come from little observations you make in everyday life, something as small as a crack in the sidewalk, perhaps,” Gruber says.
THE PHILOSOPHY “Fashion should never be too restricted or constrained. We aim for an optimal combination of material, comfort and color. Our style is always light and easy-going.”
FASHION MUST-HAVE Gruber says she’s not too attached to any one piece of clothing.
FASHION PET PEEVE You’d never catch her in gold plastic shoes. Understandably so.
WHY SHE’S IN THE BIZ “Fashion is an outlet through which we can express ourselves,” says Gruber. “We can use it to give our inner state an outer form.”
ON FASHION IN MUNICH “People in the city place a lot of value on how they look,” Gruber says. “There are exceptions, but mostly the fashion is classic, with simple cuts, whereas in Berlin, the people are more willing to experiment.”
WHERE SHE SHOPS “I really like French fashion, its prints and embroidery,” Gruber says. “I go to this great shop, Nia Dressing Room, in Schwabing, where I find a lot of that. I enjoy going to second hand stores, as well.”
