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May 2002

Top Nosh

Whiling away the hours with many tiny plates of outstanding food.

Bodega Dalí
Tengstrasse 6
Tel. (089) 27 77 96 96
Open daily, 5 pm–1 am, food served until midnight
Bodega Dalí—a quiet Spanish eatery reached by descending two flights of stairs—is certainly a hidden treasure. The decor is relaxed and decidedly Mediterranean—four or five dark wooden tables are set up in each of a network of tiny, dimly lit rooms that branch off a central bar area. Once seated, the best thing to do is order a carafe of the house wine or sangria, both of which are excellent and affordable. While a wide selection of typical Spanish dishes are offered, the best bet here is to order a variety of the tapas and share. If there are only two of you, ordering about five dishes should suffice: try the Spanish tortilla filled with baked goat cheese or spinach, baked goose liver over field greens, a small dish of green and black olives and filled sardines, a generous order of Manchego cheese and patatas fritas (fried potatoes served with a tangy dipping sauce). All meals are accompanied by baskets of soft white bread, which go well with the mild cheeses and various ham dishes (Serrano cured and Pata Negra air-dried, to name two) on the menu. For a larger party, try spicing up the table with Chorizo, a fiery pepper-garlic sausage. Other winners of the house include Pulpo con Alioli, cuttlefish marinated in garlic mayonnaise, Gambas al ajillo, prawns in hot garlic oil, and tuna Carpaccio. There are also several soups and stews from which to choose, such as a tender wild boar ragout served in a delicate sauce of figs and accompanied by crispy potatoes. Prices range from € 3.90 to € 13.60, but any way you go, the meal will be well worth the price. And, though you may not be hungry for more, the effects of the sangria may tempt you into ordering such savory desserts as almond tart, crème caramel or the lighter and healthier option of quark balls with honey. Though Bodega Dalí may be hidden, it has not escaped the public’s notice: reservations are a must.
FOOD 10, SERVICE 8, ATMOSPHERE 10

El Perro y El Griego
Belfortstrasse 14
Tel. (089) 48 25 53
Mon.–Fri. 11 am–1 am, Sat.–Sun. 4 pm–1 am.

This Spanish tapas bar, decorated with faux terra cotta walls and soft lighting, attracts crowds not just on account of its good service and promptly served tapas, but also of its great selection of main courses. The most popular fare served here, other than tasty cocktails, which are served weekdays until 8 pm at their Happy Hour price, is the restaurant’s wide selection of fresh fish, ranging from red snapper (€ 13) to sole (€ 13.50) to Goldbrasse (gilthead sea bream, similar to sea bass) (€ 13). These delicacies take 20 to 30 minutes to arrive at the table, as they are carefully prepared and grilled whole, preserving the flavor and juices and making every second worth the wait. If you are in a hurry, the chef will also gladly serve you a grilled filet of the fish of your choice in half the time. In addition to fish, there are a number of other seafood choices “aus der Pfanne,” such as salmon in a basil cream sauce (€ 11) and cod with shrimp and garlic (€ 10.50). For those who don’t like fish, the first page of the menu lists meat or vegetarian appetizers and main courses, the prices ranging from € 3.50 to € 14.50. You may choose to start with a light zucchini carrot soup (€ 3.50), grilled octopus over a bed of arugula (€ 9.80) or duck breast in a simple orange sauce atop spinach salad (€ 9.80). Main meals range from chicken breast served with an apple-Marsala wine sauce (€ 8) to baked eggplant filled with seasoned minced meat and melted cheese (€ 9.50). Keep in mind, however, that the portions are on the small side (especially the Gambas in garlic white-wine sauce), so order accordingly. If you prefer to stick with the tapas, try the zesty Rosarios, garlic sausages in oil, the herb-laced sardines or the fried crayfish claws with dip. All tapas are priced at € 4. A vitrine filled with cold tapas lines the bar, so you can pick and choose as you please, or simply ask the waiter for a tapas selection, which may come with such nibblers as Manchego cheese, Serrano ham, olives, beet salad and marinated mushrooms. A glass of wine goes well with any meal here, but before you take a look at the extensive wine list, note that this restaurant does not accept credit cards.
FOOD 7, SERVICE 5, ATMOSPHERE 10