A great weekend destination awaits at the end of the S-Bahn line
Quiet villages with surprising attractions and activities dot the Bavarian countryside. We often plan trips to faraway places when, just an S-Bahn ride away, lies a gem well worth visiting. One such destination can be found at the end of the S5 line — Herrsching. Nestled on the shore of the Ammersee, in the heart of the “Five Lakes Region,” this popular town is reminiscent of turn-of-the-century family resorts. Adults find solace on the lakeshore and along the boardwalk, while sun-kissed children excitedly hop barefoot across the warm pavement on the way to buy a late afternoon ice cream bar.
Once a thriving fishing village, Herrsching has become the most well-known vacation destination on Ammersee. Like neighboring towns that bank the lake, Herrsching is a spa town. Residents and visitors alike praise the quality of the air around the lake as having healing effects on both mind and body. A visit to the grounds of the Kurparkschlössl (spa park castle) should be on every tourist’s agenda. The fairy-tale villa, built in 1889 after plans by the artist Ludwig Scheuermann, is the signature landmark of Herrsching. In Scheuermann’s day the castle was a beloved gathering place for artists; today it hosts rotating art exhibitions. From September 5 to 17 the textile paintings by Senta Jakob, a Munich artist, can be viewed. On display from September 19 to October 1 will be oils and watercolors as well as reverse-glass painting by Eva Okslar and Jutta von Wickeren. Kurparkschlössl also houses a Standesamt — a romantic and unique setting for weddings.
While many seek rejuvenation by relaxing in one of Herrsching’s resort hotels, cycling enthusiasts won’t be disappointed by a tour around the lake (47 km). The path, which is only mildly strenuous, leads south from Herrsching’s S Bahn station to Diessen (15 km) where, throughout September, local artists set up makeshift stands to sell their work along the boardwalk. Take time to visit the romantic Rococo church of St. Mary, whose masterly interior was conceived in 1739 by J. M. Fischer. Continue on to Schondorf (12 km), home to the oldest house of worship on Ammersee — St. Jacob’s Chapel, built in the 12th century. The view from Schondorf’s shore is a well-deserved reward for the distance covered so far, so be sure to stop and enjoy it before heading to Stegen (5 km). There you will be able to board one of the small boats that tour the lake, and ride back to Herrsching in style or leave your bike on shore and enjoy a roundtrip cruise. The oldest of the fleet, the Diessen ship, began plying the Ammersee in 1908. The romantic ambiance of the old-fashioned steam paddle boat can still be felt today even though it is now powered by modern technology. Ships operate between Herrsching, Diessen, Buch, Schondorf, Breitbrunn, Stegen, Holzhausen, Utting and Riederau. Ample parking is available at Stegen and Herrsching. If you decide to cycle back to Herrsching (15 km), follow the path by way of Inning and Breitbrunn. The boats in the Ammersee fleet can also be chartered for private parties. You choose the length of the cruise, time of day, type of music, decoration and a per person budget for food. Organizers will gladly tailor the event to your requests.
The scenic landscape of this region also invites long walks. The world-famous Andechs Monastery is a leisurely one-hour walk from Herrsching. The Kiental path is clearly signposted from the station and leads thirsty patrons to the picturesque destination. The monks have been brewing their signature strong beer here for centuries, shaping the tradition of German beer-brewing. Though most come here to enjoy the strong stuff, Andechs has more to offer than just good food and drink and a spectacular view of the Chiemgau and Allgäu Alps.
In addition to the many musically inclined monks who have inhabited Andechs, composers, such as Carl Orff and Franz Christoph Neubauer, helped put it on the map as a well-known venue for concerts of classical music. Monks still teach music here today and in the Florian-Stadl concert hall performances are held year-round.
The Benedictine monastery has attracted many pilgrims over the centuries. The Baroque Monastery Church (open daily until 19:00) houses a number of important religious relics brought back from the Crusades, such as pieces of Christ’s crown of thorns and the victory crucifix of Charlemagne.
Throughout the month of September the Andechs Monastery is host to an unusual labyrinth (open daily, 11:00-20:00). What makes the attraction unique is that its paths are carved in a field of hemp. Modeled after architect Jacques Gabriel IV’s (1636-1686) garden labyrinth in Choisy-le-Roi, France, the Andechs version covers an area of 3 hectars and is located next to the monastery parking lot. Organizers provide guests with information about the environmental benefits of producing hemp products. Incidentally, the crop is not the THC-laden, smokeable variety.
Many Munich residents consider the city’s close proximity to a multitude of other European destinations one of the benefits of living here. It is easy to forget that throngs of people travel to Bavaria each year to see what is in our own backyard. This year disguise yourself as a tourist and take a ride to the end of the S5 to discover what the land of beer and Trachten has to offer.
Lake tours:
Boats leave from the various ports daily from 9:09 to 20:12. Special events include: September 3, Schlemmerfahrt cruise, buffet with Italian delicacies, wine and brandy for DM 49. Departs Stegen at 19:30. September 17, Hossa Olé! Cruise, Mexican buffet for DM 49. Departs Stegen at 19:30. Tickets can be reserved up to two weeks in advance by calling (08152) 7735. Detailed information can be found at
Where to eat:
Mühlfeld Bräu, Mühlfeld 13, Herrsching, Tel. (098152) 5578. Beer is brewed on the premises and tours of the small brewery are available. The cozy atmosphere of this restaurant makes it one of the nicest places to enjoy delicious Bavarian fare. Open daily, from 11:00-24:00, closed Mondays.
Where to stay:
How to get there:
Klosterstüberl Andechs, open daily, 9:00-20:45. Generous
portions of succulent pork and sauerkraut washed down, of course, with the famous beer.
Hotel Piushof
Schönbichlstr. 18, 82211 Herrsching
Tel. (08152) 96 82-0.
Ammersee Hotel
Summerstr. 32, 82211 Herrsching,
Tel. (08152) 968 70.
>>> By TRAIN: S5 to Herrsching.
>>> By car: Munich-Lindau Autobahn A96 to exit Weßling.
